Looking at a used John Deere 5310 – a few questions

Looking at a used John Deere 5310 - a few questions Problems

Forgive me if this is not exactly in the right forum. I looked at a used 2000 JD 5310 with 1207 hours. It had the trans 9×3 SS and 540 FEL. Tires have some life but are 50% or more worn. I tested it in all gears, forward and reverse, and it shifted easily and handled great. The machine is at a JD dealer in a store and they want $ 16K for it. The guy who traded it in is the second owner and has only put a few hours into it in the last few years.

There are decals all over the loader arms for various marinas so I’m assuming this is how it was used and I checked it carefully for rust and found something but nothing really important. I found what looks like an old grease leak in the right side front differential case that I wanted to get checked. That could be important, and it might not be a big deal.

A big downside to me is that the FEL is run by dual remotes at the rear of the tractor. There are no remotes in the center. So to hook up my hay I’m going to have to unplug the loader or convert it to have mid-mount quick connections. Can anyone comment on any way I am not thinking this issue can be solved? And how about the price, in general, for a tractor that appears to be in average condition – not great, not terrible.

Looking at a used John Deere 5310

Just to double check that you shouldn’t hear that kickback noise when the hydraulics are being used.

If the cluster is NOT the original and you have a replacement cluster the hours will not be the same, but it sounds like it is. On the fuel gauge if the gauge stays the same while running, the problem is with the wiring or more likely the sender’s part number Re190977, which is on the fuel tank, access is from behind the seat .

It’s easy to replace, just don’t loosen the nuts / bolts (voice of experience). I would have the dealer move the seat and disconnect the orange wire from the fuel sender (wire number is 353) and just put the key in the run position, no need to start it and the gauge should be empty. You can then ground the orange wire and it should be full again. I would since the bunches are around $ 550.

If you take a look at the manual under Check and Adjust Clutch Pedal Free Play – CollarShift and SyncShuttle Transmissions? You will see how to adjust the free play and see how much adjustment is left, that will give you an idea about the clutch. It should be OK. To replace the clutch on the 5X10 as it should tractors it has to be split in half, it doesn’t seem that difficult to do, if you have the tools and help. You can buy what is called a clutch pack, which would be the way it would go.

In getting that in and out of MFWD, if not just slide in and out. Just a little roll and clutch on, it should go in and out a lot easier. It also helps if the bucket is empty or at least on the ground. You must be stopped to put in the park and the park light in the group does not work.

I don’t know the size of your hay machine, but it should get the job done and having it MFWD should help some too.

Now that I know it has MFWD I would say 16K is a good price. If you are close in price ask the dealer to throw in 10 gallons of hydraulic fluid and filter or at least see if it has ever been done. Mine had never been done and the pickup screen did need to be cleaned.

If you get it and you feel like it, send me a PM and I share my other experiences with the my JD 5310

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