I have a John Deere 5310, the hydraulics are uneven, started a little and now the steering of the loader is bad, etc. Is it the pump or the filters?
Make sure none of your hydraulic cylinders are extended and fill it until you can put your finger in and barely touch it, doing this when the cylinders are extended will overfill it.
This cylinder is not difficult to disassemble.
Stand it upright in a vise or a suitable stand.
Using a block or wooden dowel (maybe a rubber mallet as well), press down on the top cylinder cap to relieve tension on the ring.
Use a small-blade screwdriver or pick and turn the “retainer” until the bent end reaches the opening.
Lift and rotate the ring further to allow the ring to pass over the edge of the opening.
Once the retainer has engaged, you can tap the wood and rubber mallet around the circumference of the cylinder to release the retainer from the slot.
If you haven’t already, the oil should be drained.
With the cylinder firmly in the vise (but not too tight to “distort the integrity of the cylinder”), turn the cylinder on its side so that the piston and rod assembly can be removed. *** Put a suitable drain or hose in cylinder holes ***. With the movement of the piston, the residual oil will tend to flow out.
Pull out the piston and place it all the way into the upper bushing, that is, fully extended.
Place a bracket under the rod to avoid damage. The stuffing box has a very tight fit with the use of O-rings and backup rings. Excessive travel can damage the stuffing box assembly and get stuck in the cylinder. It may be hand-held, also dependent on size, bore, stroke, and pressure rating. Be cautious.
If only the piston rod comes out, there are more steps to take, and a new piston rod is needed, but sometimes it is more profitable to buy a new cylinder. If there is an agricultural supplier or hydraulic distributor nearby they can certify / replace the cylinder repair for you.
Hydraulic pressure is like lightning. Hitting you under pressure can kill you. *** Using the knockout blow or rubber mallet try to remove the gland using the piston / rod assembly as a puller. You may not have to remove the top hatch or the other end of the cylinder, so maybe you can hit that.
The piston can be removed from the rod depending on the brand. Usually a socket head bolt or king nut that holds it in place to the rod.
When the piston is removed you should be able to slide the gland out as well.
You will need that pick and or the screwdriver to carefully remove the stamps. Let me know if you need more.